This plan is ideal for beginner through advanced-intermediate climbers preparing for the winter climbing season. Climbers looking to start leading grade 4 and harder ice will realize a big boost in confidence that comes with increased ice-climbing-specific strength, especially in the forearms, shoulders, and calves.
This is a strength-focused eight week program and assumes that the climber has some basic fitness, including the ability to hang from two ice tools for a minimum of 10 seconds and complete 0-3 unassisted pull-ups on ice tools. You will need a selection of gym equipment and a pair of ice tools. This program involves 2-3 gym-based strength workouts per week and assumes that you will climb at an indoor rock climbing facility or be climbing outdoors a minimum of once per week.
This plan is based on scientifically sound training and a combined thirty years of professional endurance coaching experience and sixty years of world-wide climbing experience.
Tips: Rest when you are tired. If you miss one workout in a week, do not try to make it up, simply move on. If you miss more than two workouts in any one week then repeat that week. Do not combine this program with other strength training of any kind. This is meant to be a stand alone strength program and adding other strength work, even lower body, may have a significant negative impact on your recovery, and hence the positive effect of this training.
For detailed information and to understand how this plan is constructed, please consult our book, "Training for the New Alpinism" published by Patagonia Books. For specific questions about this training plan, or to send us your success story and be featured on our website www.uphillathlete.com email us at firstname.lastname@example.org
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Steve House and Scott Johnston